Part I Great Adventure London

I recall not so long ago when summer vacation meant a week at our sister-in-law's in Utah or at a friend's cabin in Invemere, British Columbia. While I loved those experiences with our children, family and friends, I did feel rather envious of those who travelled to exotic places and to the epicentre of civilization.

When Bob announced late last fall that he had a three week sabbatical, the genesis of our great adventure found fertile ground in my imagination. Looking at an atlas, we discussed many options. Timing was also an issue because he could only go in July. After a few months of consideration, we agreed our itinerary would include London, England; Paris, France; Venice, Florence and Rome, Italy.

July 4th we departed to London on Air Transat (which I might add is the most uncomfortable plane on the planet for anyone whose legs are longer than a pygmy's). It is a curious thing to depart in the evening and arrive in the morning and yet never see the sun set. Upon our arrival, we purchased an Oyster Card, and then headed to Victoria Station where we then took Tube to Westbury Hotel just across the street from Hyde Park, London's largest urban park. Our room wasn't ready so we went for a long walk into Knotting Hill where a beautiful canopy of trees shaded us as we walked. People were out walking, having breakfast in little terrace cafes. We however, were jetlagged and very fatigued, desperately needing a nap. This great adventure wasn't looking too promising up to this point. Getting there is the boring stuff. Thankfully after a little sleep, our enthusiasm to explore returned. Just crossing the street we entered Hyde Park which rivals our Fish Creek Park and where we saw lovers, runners, roller bladers, roller hockey players, horseback riders, picnic enthusiasts, people watchers, and tourists. I had forgotten about the driving on the other side of the road, and stepping into the intersection without looking the right way proved nearly fatal. While Speaker's Corner was our destination, we didn't get much father than Albert Hall and the beautiful Albert Monument dedicated to Queen Victoria's husband. It's a rather impressive though ridiculously garrish monument with the four corners of the British Empire represented. Leaving the park, we saw millionaire row which has beautiful old homes which are well appointed, guarded, gated and many which house embassies. This street suggested a priviledged and aristocratic culture that we don't much see in Calgary.

Had I known how many monuments I was going to see along this adventure, I might have prepared better by studying British and European history. These monuments, halls and famous castles reminded me how little I really know about the world and how it has developed.

Yes we did do the Big Bus Tour (yes that iconic double decker red bus) that introduced us to all the highlights of London. The weather grew colder and wetter as we continued the tour yet we suffered through it wanting to make sure we got our dollar's worth. We poked around the National Art Gallery where I found the most beautiful painting by Titian entitled the Tribute Money. We were going to see so much more art throughout the next three weeks but at that point we were still fresh and eager, captive and interested. The British Museum which houses the Rosetta Stone and the most curious Egyptian artifacts reminded us how young our country is in comparison to the world's history.

We enjoyed some live theatre while there. Blood Brothers was a play that probably wouldn't work in North America but I found the performances absolutely riveting and the themes of social class were heart wrenching.

Though I had seen Wicked in New York with M a few years ago, B had not and so we enjoyed seeing it again. The quality of the performances were superior to anything I have certainly had the opportunity to see. These gutwrenching, engergetic performances did not suggest the actors had repeated these same lines a hundred times or a hundred times a hundred. So fresh and exuberant. I sat beside a woman from Ottawa who was there with her daughter. Imagine my surprise when I bumped into her again later in Paris at the Musee D'Orsay. Of all the billions of people on the planet, how is it that we always run into the same people?

We spent a few hours in London Tower where we did not lose our heads ;). I loved hearing of the tales of deceit, treason, murder, ambition that occurred there. Again that feeling of how ignorant I am of history impressed upon me that perhaps I would/could study more when I got home. Bob had read some history book about Churchill during the WW II and so we took in the Churchill Museum and Cabinet War Rooms where he and others worked during the air raids on London. This had all the potential to be captivating and dramatic but turned out to be very sterile and withdrawn from the actual events that occurred there during the Battle of Britain.

London is wet. It rained the whole time we were there. An umbrella is essential. And a wool sweater. In the dead of summer, we were freezing. No need to air condition there. Lush and green for a reason.

We had been told by other travellers that the food in England was disgusting and unappealing. Our experience contradicted their warnings. We found the Thai food at Churchill's pub, the authentic English food at Fionna's, the Fish and Chips at Geale's and the East Indian food at Mahal's very appetising and satisfying. Not as expensive as people predicted. And delicious.

We visited Covent Garden our last day which turned out to be such a pleasant refreshing change from the tour and museums.

This acrobat draws a large crowd several times a day every day. He was witty and amazingly quick. Fit and yet older, he made juggling and riding that unicyle look simple. He changed quickly into a red tight all the while talking and juggling. He had an ability to draw in the crowd and invited a young boy to help him during one of his acts. Later when he paid the little boy 5 BP, he reminded us that he too needed to be paid, that this was his work. Many of us put in our coins and I wondered afterward how much he does make. Maybe he is in one of those divinely appointed homes on Millionaire Row. We couldn't resist the cookies in Ben's Bakery nor the pint baskets of fresh strawberries. I have never tasted berries like this. We talked about those berries and compared them to others we would see along the way. They are the benchmark.

We weren't ready to leave London when it came time to depart to catch Eurostar rail to Paris. Four days just isn't enough and we vowed to go back. Catch Part II tomorrow where we see Paris for the first time.